If you ask Google or ChatGPT when to travel to Iceland, it will always scream “SUMMER!” at you. Summer is amazing, of course: the days never turn dark, all the roads are open, everyone is out and about, and the whole country feels like one big road-trip festival. But for anyone who’s curious about a quieter, more atmospheric side of Iceland, the shoulder season already starts whispering its own invitation.

When you ask the people who actually live here and know the area, many of us will tell you: come in the shoulder season. By that we mean roughly October to April, skipping Christmas and New Year’s when it gets busy again. From our Midgard perspective, these months have their own magic. It’s the cozy season, the slow season, the twilight season, and so much more—one of those times when Iceland feels a little wilder, a little softer, and somehow even more itself.

Famous Sights Without other Humans

Iceland is all about nature, about low human impact, about untouchedness, wilderness, vast empty spaces. In the shoulder season, a lot less people are travelling – and even at the famous main tourist attraction sites you might just get that. The big name sights are still here, but the crowds are not and you get to take photos without having to bend over and try to hide the bright yellow raincoats, etc.

From a guiding perspective, this is also when we can slow down with guests. It’s less rushing from stop to stop, we hang back a bit, take an extra detour, or just enjoy a longer coffee break with a glacier view.

Front-Row Seats to the Northern Lights

Many people come to Iceland for one reason – the Northern Lights. In summer, the sky is simply too bright. But in shoulder season the nights are properly dark again, which means:

• You can watch the auroras from the hot tub at Midgard Base Camp (yes, that does happen)

• You don’t have to stay up all night – darkness comes early, especially in mid-winter

• If the forecast is good, it’s easy to escape light pollution around Hvolsvöllur and head to our favourite viewing spots

Northern Lights are never guaranteed. Iceland doesn’t do guarantees! But shoulder season gives you many more opportunities to try your luck! So we see the Northern Lights as a bonus: you can have your best time during daylight, exploring our incredible island – and if the lights show up during the night? Well that’s just the cherry on top of a perfect, perfect day! 

Iceland as a Winter / Autumn / Spring Playground

Shoulder season is when Iceland gets all of it: a bit of autumn, a bit of winter, a bit of spring… sometimes in the same week.

Depending on when you come, you might get…

Autumn colours (October and November):
Red and golden moss spread across Þórsmörk, rivers send steam into the cold air and the crisp days are perfect for hiking. Sometimes the mountain peaks get a tiny sugar coat of fresh snow, adding just a hint of early-winter magic without the full winter bite.

Snow, ice and winter light (December to February/March):
Soft daylight stretches across the whole day and gives everything an almost dreamlike atmosphere. Waterfalls freeze into sculptural shapes, blue ice caves and glaciers open for exploration and the winter light itself stays unforgettable because it’s both dramatic and strangely gentle at the same time.

Spring vibes (March to April):
Longer days return but the Northern Lights are still very much possible, creating that rare mix of winter mood and spring brightness. Snow melts in the lowlands while the mountains stay beautifully white, making for striking landscapes, and locals soak up every precious bit of sunshine as the country slowly wakes up again.

For us at Midgard, this is when we can run different kinds of adventures: one week we are hiking in a snowy Þórsmörk valley, the next week we are walking on dry, springy trails in the same area. It keeps things interesting for us and unforgettable for the guests.

Better Value 

Iceland is not known as the world’s cheapest destination, we know… Shoulder season, however, is usually quite a bit easier on the wallet: more availability and often better prices for flights to Iceland. Accommodation and rental cars are thanks to the lower demand quite a lot cheaper. So basically you can get the same or better experiences for less (if you avoid the Christmas holidays). 

Locals Actually Have Time for You

In peak summer, everyone is busy, happy, but definitely busy. In shoulder season, it’s different. We have time to chat at the bar at Base Camp about your route the next day. We have time to share local stories and secret spots without having to rush off to check in the next group.

And in shoulder season, we are even more flexible! Want to change plans because the weather looks better in Þórsmörk than on the coast? Much easier outside peak season. If you enjoy connection and conversation, shoulder season is when you really notice it.

The Weather: Challenging, But Part of the Fun

We have to talk about the weather, because this is Iceland. During the shoulder season, the weather can shift between rain, wind, snow, and sunshine – sometimes all in a single day, just as it can in summer.

These conditions can make driving “interesting,” especially on rough mid-winter days, but they also create an atmosphere that’s nothing short of spectacular: clouds racing across glaciers, waves crashing against the cliffs, snow showers rolling in and out. You really feel nature here – which is probably why you chose Iceland in the first place – and in the shoulder season, you get all of it.

The conditions are also much better for photography, with a quality of light you simply have to experience for yourself and long, lingering golden hours in autumn and winter. We live by the motto that there is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing, so if you pack sensibly with layers, a waterproof outer shell, solid boots, and warm hat and gloves, the weather becomes part of the adventure rather than a problem.

At Midgard we practice the art of having plans A, B, C, and D: if one road is closed, we head somewhere else; if a hike is too exposed for the day’s wind, we adjust. Flexibility is the superpower of traveling in the shoulder season, and it turns unpredictability into opportunity.

Hot Tubs, Candle Light and Slow Evenings

Here’s something people often underestimate: how good it feels to come back inside after a day out. Especially when the inside is at Midgard. 

Shoulder season is peak  “hygge” in Nordic style:

• Long evenings in the cozy restaurant, bar and lobby, sharing stories over local beer, Gina’s mulled wine or hot chocolate.

• Watching the wind and snow from the safe side of the window, feeling extra grateful for wool socks and underfloor heating.

• Jumping into the hot tub under a dark sky, maybe with Northern Lights, maybe just with stars – both are pretty great. And let’s be honest, a hot spring feels 100% better when the outside is cold!

In summer, the days are nightless and people are outside much, much longer – your body tells you that you should not sleep. In autumn and winter, evenings at Base Camp often turn into that relaxed vibe we love: board games, trip planning, reading a good book or a fun chat at the bar. 

Shoulder Season in South Iceland

Since we are based in Hvolsvöllur, right between Reykjavík and Vík, we have to mention what counts most during this time of the year:

Shorter Driving Distances! Basing yourself at Midgard means you can explore waterfalls, black-sand beaches, glaciers, highland valleys and hot springs without changing accommodation every night. That’s extra nice when the weather is… creative. We love helping guests design an itinerary that works with the season, not against it.

A Few More Honest Tips for Shoulder Season Travel

Here are some additional, practical points:

• Check the weather and road conditions daily (and don’t be shy to ask locals for advice)

• Rent a proper car: in mid-winter consider 4×4!

• Build buffer into your itinerary: fewer long drives, more time in each area

• Think in experiences, not checklists: you might not “do it all”, but what you do will feel richer

And most important: come with a “Þetta reddast” mindset. Things will change, plans will adapt, and somehow… it works out.

So, Is Shoulder Season for You?

If you’re looking for a more intimate Iceland, a real chance to see the Northern Lights, a blend of wild weather, soft light, and cosy evenings, and locals who actually have the time to sit down and talk with you about volcanoes, hiking routes, or which hot pools are worth the detour, then the shoulder season might truly be the perfect time for your visit. At Midgard Base Camp, this is one of our favourite periods of the year to welcome guests. We’re here, full of ideas, armed with multiple plan B´s, and always ready with plenty of mulled wine.