The days are getting shorter, the air a little crisper, and the mountains around Hvolsvöllur are starting to be sugar coated in the mornings. Stefan, a co-owner of Midgard, grew up in Switzerland and is about to spend his 9th winter in Iceland. We sat down with him, to talk about how he embraces the change of season and why he looks forward to the Icelandic winter.
The season is shifting – how do you usually feel when summer ends and the Icelandic winter begins?
Luckily there’s usually a sweet spot between summer and winter – autumn here can be absolutely beautiful. September and October are actually two of my favorite months: the colors in the landscape are still full on, the highland roads (my playground!) are still open, and some days are so warm that even a beloved cold plunge doesn’t feel too bad. Plus, if the skies are clear, the northern lights have been fantastic during this time of the year!
Of course, it’s also a little bittersweet. At work, the end of summer means many of our seasonal staff members head off back to school, university or to new adventures. We don’t like saying goodbye – this past summer (like every summer) we had such a lovely group of people that there were quite a few tears. But the nice thing is, it’s usually just a “see you soon” because many of these wonderful characters come back, either to work with us again or simply to visit. I always say in job interviews: I’m not just looking for staff, I’m looking for our future friends – and that’s really what they become.
What’s the first sign of winter that gets you excited?
For me, it’s the crisp mornings. When you step outside and the air is so fresh, so clean and cold, it just feels different. It’s wonderful! The grass stops growing (so you don’t have to spend hours every week cutting it), the birds start flying in those beautiful V-shaped formations heading slowly for their winter home, and suddenly the nightless nights are over. First you see the first stars again, and very soon after, the first northern lights dancing above.
And honestly, while many assume I’d prefer the endless summer daylight, I think I love winter even more. It’s hard to explain why, but there’s something special about the coziness, the long nights, the chance to slow down, focus on health, and enjoy those cozy social moments with friends. Summer can feel full of expectations – so many hikes, trips, and things you want to fit in – and before you know it, it’s gone. Winter feels different: calmer, with fewer expectations. That’s something I really appreciate about the icelandic winter.
How is an Icelandic winter different from the one you grew up with in Switzerland?
A lot of people assume the darkness must hit me hard, but honestly, it doesn’t. In Switzerland, where I grew up, winter also meant short days – you’d leave for work in the dark and come home in the dark, so in that sense it’s not such a big change. The real difference here in Iceland is the quality of the light. When the sun does rise, even if it’s only for a few hours, it can be absolutely spectacular. The low golden light, the pink (so they say, I am actually color blind but I trust they are actually pink) skies – it’s something you really have to experience to understand.
Back home in the lower lands of Switzerland, I was used to weeks of high fog and a kind of endless greyness. Icelandic winters are the opposite: the days may be short, but the light we do get feels magical. What surprised me most, though, is the weather itself. In Switzerland, winters were calmer, quieter – here, you truly have weather, in all its shapes and scales. The wind can be incredible. It’s like the soundtrack of the season, a constant howling outside. I don’t remember anyone ever losing a car door back in Switzerland, but here… well, let’s just say I’ve had a few close calls!
What I really like is how Icelanders embrace it all. Because life is so closely connected to nature here, you can’t really avoid winter – you adapt. And that means more than just putting on a thicker jacket. The whole lifestyle changes: from being outdoors as much as possible in summer to slowing down, lighting candles, cooking together, and becoming these cozy indoor people who gather around a table.
How do you keep your energy and spirits up during the dark months?
There are a few things that make all the difference. Number one – vitamins! I never skip my Vitamin D, Omega 3, and so on. I call them my “sunshine pills” in the morning. In general winter is easier to keep up with routines – somehow the daylight gives your day a frame – a frame for these routines. So I tend to be better in winter in keeping up with things that I tend to push away over summer: admin tasks, improving language skills, cleaning at home, etc.
I also make sure to move every day. Even if the weather looks wild, I believe there’s no such thing as bad weather, only different types of adventure. Going out for a run (even with crampons), getting fresh air and daylight – those things really keep me going. In summer I run marathons and ultra marathons. In winter the training definitely slows down a bit, but it never disappears completely – as it is still fun to be out there, even with snow up your nostrils, frozen hair, etc – it’s part of the experience.
Staying active isn’t just about fitness for me, it’s about mental health. Honestly, I might not look like someone who’s in the gym as often as I am, but it makes me feel good – and that’s the most important part.
And of course, I like to have things to look forward to. Whether that’s a dinner with friends, a concert night in town, a board game evening, or even planning my next trip abroad (honestly, sometimes I enjoy the planning, the anticipation as much as the trip itself), it all helps me stay motivated through the darker weeks.
How do you bring coziness into your home in winter?
For me, it’s all about atmosphere. I put up candles – even scented ones that remind me of a wooden cottage in Finnish Lapland. Like most Icelanders, I love decorating with Christmas lights, both inside and outside, and in Iceland we call them vetrarljós – “winter lights.” The best thing is you can put them up already in autumn, and no one will think it’s strange. And yes, I do go quite crazy about them – competing with other team members who has more meters of light strings around the house (I put up about 300 meters of light strings around the house… no wonder my neighbours never see the aurora..?!). And if you want to keep them up until March – that’s just fine here as well, no one minds about that!
And then of course there’s the sauna and the hot tub. I’m lucky enough to have them right in my garden, so I use them daily – again a routine that is so much easier to maintain over winter. Combine that with good food and time with friends, and it’s pure winter bliss.
What role does Midgard Base Camp play during the icelandic winter season?
Midgard is always cozy, but in winter it feels extra special. When the wind is howling outside, we light the candles, people curl up with books, play board games, or share stories over one of Gina’s famous mugs of mulled wine. It’s a different energy than in summer – less rush, more togetherness – and those evenings really remind me why we created this place in the first place.
The guests at Midgard are always wonderful, but in winter they feel even more easy-going, adventurous, and open to whatever the weather brings. Many arrive expecting the worst storms, but then they’re pleasantly surprised by how beautiful and enjoyable winter here can actually be.They’re the kind of people who don’t mind if their shoes get a little wet on a hike – and even more excited if they catch the Northern Lights dancing overhead. One of my favorite things is being on check-out shift after a night with crazy auroras, seeing people come down for breakfast tired, but glowing because they’ve just experienced something unforgettable, a dream coming true – and we got to be the base for that. Those mornings make it impossible not to love this job.
Midgard also becomes a hub for the locals during the icelandic winter months. When the days grow short and the winds pick up, this old concrete factory fills with life – not just with travellers, but with people from all around Hvolsvöllur and the surrounding area. This winter we already have some fantastic evenings lined up: Ári Eldjárn, an incredibly funny stand-up comedian, Ásgeir Trausti and KK are both coming for concerts, and of course we’ll host our classic nights like Midgard Thanksgiving and the so much anticipated arrival of the first Christmas beers. These are the kinds of evenings I like – it creates this wonderful Midgard blend of locals, guests and our incredible staff – all under one roof for a good night to remember.
Finally, if you could give one tip to someone visiting or living in South Iceland in winter, what would it be?
Be flexible and embrace what the season brings. The weather here has a mind of its own – one moment you’ll have snow blowing sideways, the next you might see the most beautiful aurora of your life. Don’t plan every hour of your trip down to the minute, because nature will likely change it for you. Listen to locals, check the road conditions, stay safe – and most importantly, enjoy it! Winter in Iceland is stunning, and if you lean into it, it gives back so much.
